Spicy Straw Potatoes

Ingredients

For seasoned salt
1 teaspoon paprika
1/2 teaspoon ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon cayenne
1/8 teaspoon sugar
For potatoes
2 lb russet (baking) potatoes (4), peeled

3 cups peanut or vegetable oil

Special equipment: a deep-fat thermometer

Directions

Make seasoned salt: Stir together all seasoned salt ingredients in a small bowl. Soak potatoes: Cut potatoes lengthwise into thin matchsticks, about 1/8 inch thick, using a mandolin or other manual slicer, and submerge in a bowl of ice water until ready to fry. Fry potatoes: Heat oil in a 4-quart heavy saucepan over moderately high heat until it registers 375°F on deep-fat thermometer. While oil is heating, drain potatoes in a colander and dry well with paper towels. Fry potatoes in 4 batches, stirring, until golden, 4 to 5 minutes (return oil to 375°F between batches), transferring each batch with a slotted spoon to a baking sheet lined with paper towels to drain. While still warm, toss each batch with one fourth of seasoned salt.

Cooks' note:• If you have leftovers, they will keep in an airtight container at room temperature 3 days.